Long distance rounds and traverses: The Lakes, Snowdonia and Scotland.
I catalogue below some spring/summer adventures of 2010, primarily in Snowdonia and the Lake Dsitrict, but also one in
Torridon. Most of these were done sub-24h (point-to-point) and for a large number of these excursions I opted to take a
light weight bivvy/sleeping bag to break the journey, especially in the dark hours. Probably carried no more than 5kg,
allowing for sufficient food, water and wet weather gear.
A Welsh 3000s circuit. April 22/23, 2010.
The traditional Welsh 3000s is usually done peak-to-peak but there is a certain appeal when turning it into
a loop. My 5th succesful attempt at the 3000s was achieved when starting and ending at Capel Curig. I
departed in the mid afternoon and the following peaks were traversed (in order):
Tryfan, Glyder Fach, Glyder Fawr, Crib Goch, Garnedd Ugain, Snowdon, Moel Cynghorion, Foel Goch, Foel Gron,
Moel Eilio, Elidir Fawr, Y Garn, Pen y Ole Wen, Carnedd Dafydd, Yr Elen, Garnedd Uchaf,
Foel Fras, Foel Grach, Carnedd Llyelyn, Pen yr Helgi Du, Pen Llithrig y Wrach.
The route covers circa 44 miles and 17500 ft of ascent and there is excellent scope for scrambling
on Tryfan, the Glyder's, and Snowdon (at least 4000ft of it). Indeed by taking on the rough stuff early
in the round I took Tryfan's North Ridge, Bristly Ridge, Crib Goch's North East ridge and the ridge
continuation to Garnedd Ugain.
Elidir Fawr to Carnedd Llyelyn was done in the dark (taking Pen y Ole Wen's east ridge in ascent).
The round took 19h15 (non-stop). Good progress was made to Pen y Ole Wen (14000ft, 12.5 hours) but then I experienced a
significant slowing down in the cold and frosty early morning hours, namely on the section from Pen y Ole Wen
to Foel Fras. I recovered speed from then onwards to finish in relatively good shape at Capel Curig.
The Rhinog ridge. April 27/28, 2010
Despite their size the Rhinogs are probably the wildest peaks in Snowdonia. For the uninitiated the
Rhinog Fach to Rhinog Fawr crossing is quite notoruous if you go off route, and similarly for the rest
of the ridge when going all the way to Foel Penolau. I've visited these peaks a few times and mainly tackled them
from south to north. The ascent of Rhinog Fawr when taken direct from the stream juction below Llyn Cwmhosan is
exceptionally tough, requiring bolder balancing and tugging at various bits of vegetation.
After a few days rest following the Welsh 3000s round I undertook the Rhinog traverse, but this time heading south.
The plan was to do more peaks afterwards (such as Aran Fawddwy and Arenig Fawr) but the lazy option was always on the
cards when carrying the bivvy bag. I started around 2pm from Trawsfynydd and finished just off Gau Graig
(near Cadair Idris) at around 12:30am. The following peaks were traversed:
Foel Penolau, Moel Ysgfarnogod, Clip, Craig Wion, peak 518m (near Llyn Morwynion), Rhinog Fawr, Rhinog Fach,
Y Llethr, Diffwys, Cadair Idris, Gau Craig.
The route covered circa 30 miles, 10000ft in a traverse time of around 10-11 hours. In the morning I then descended
direct to Dolgellau (for breakfast and the bus back to Bangor). The more ambitious plan was to get back to Trawsfynydd
by 2pm via Waun-Oer, Glasgwm, Aran Fawddwy and Arenig Fawr. However I overslept until about 7:30am and when I measured the
distance (from Gau Graig) it was going to too much hard work - but I think I'll come back for that one at a later date!
As for general comments on the above route I can say that finding the intricate ridge path through the bluffs, knolls
and lakes makes things very pleasant indded. Foel Penolau to Clip is relatively straightforward but there is a lot of
unexpected ups and downs to skirt cliffs and lakes. There is a good trod to Craig Wion and then another trod
along the ridge to peak 518m. The latter trod I only found on this occasion: don't try to go off the ridge
as it gets very tricky to make progress. From Rhinog Fawr to Rhinog Fach there appears to be a good path off the major
peak to the pass Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, and then an obvious path to Rhinog Fach. It's then trivial (relatively speaking)
to Diffwys. I descended east into the forest and then to the toll bridge (arrive 9pm), and eventually making
progress up Cadair Idris (in the dark). Relatively easy going but not so fast at this stage. I then deciced to bivvy
on the grassy slopes of Gau Graig.
A round from Grasmere (via Ullscarf, Grasmoor, High Stile, Scafell Pike). May 28/29, 2010
Once into late May the daylight hours become sufficiently long to make more major excursions. I undertook the following
route, settting off from Grasmere at 4:45pm and arriving back 3:15pm the next day:
Ullscarf, Dale Head, Hindscarth, Robinson, Knott Rigg, Ard Crags, Sail, Eel Crag, Grasmoor, Hopegill Head,
Whiteside, Mellbreak, Red Pike, High Stile, High Crags, Haystacks, Green Gable, Great Gable, Scafell Pike,
High Raise.
The route measures at around 19000ft, 50 miles, with travel time of 22h30 (including the 6h bivvy).
Overall this made a good round with easy grassy peaks and good weather on the first pre-bivvy section. Darkness
fell on Grasmoor, with easy progress except for the north-west descent
off Whiteside. This was steep scree, heather and rocky outcrops and the mental effort involved in navigating
this made me more sleepy than expected. This lead me straight into
the bivvy bag once I got onto the easier (flatter) ground around midnight.
A few spots of rain woke me at 6am and then I proceeded
to Mellbreak via a scrambly path, and then a sluggish climb towards Red Pike via Scale Force. I started to properly
wake up once onto Haystacks (now around 10am) and then cross country onto and over the Gables. These peaks were quiet but
the day-hordes were found once at Sty Head tarn. The Corridor Route was taken to Scafell Pike, passing various groups. At Piers Gill
the mist descended and the rain picked up, however the top of Scafell Pike was easily located,
it being around my 20th visit. As usual there were queues for the summit cairn (circa 12 noon), and I didn't linger
much on the top. Thinking that I knew where I was going I headed off along the obvious route towards the
north-eastern col, but after descending for a few minutes in the mist this route was becoming un-obvious, especially as
I was now passing people I'd overtaken on the Corridor Route (who where coming up). I went back to the summit again, found
the same hordes, got the compass out again and found myself running back in the same direction (so I was right the
first time..). I passed more people who I'd overtaken on the Corridor Route and they asked if I was "local:" hopefully
not in the League of Gentlemen sense!
The mist was very dense now and the rain was getting more persistent but route finding proved fine all the way
to Angle Tarn, and then to Stake Beck. The end was in sight and the idea was to get to Grasmere along any line, but
I was soon up again into the thick mist, wind and heavy rain. The High Raise plateau proved to be it's usual featureless
self. To get some bearings on where I was I decided it was best to visit the summit. The preferred way off was via
Seargent Man, and then to Easdale Tarn. This proved harder than expected, and more so when I couldn't find Seargent Man.
A rough descent was made and a strange tarn appeared out of the mist, but things made more sense when I finally got the map out:
it was Codale Tarn. A damp jogging descent was made to Grasmere, and then straight onto the awaiting 599 bus to Windermere.
A round from Grasmere (via Pike of Blisco, Scafell Pike, Harter Fell, Swirl How). June 5/6, 2010
Settting off from Grasmere around 3pm and arriving back 2pm the next day the following peaks were traversed:
Blea Rigg, Harrison Stickle, Pike of Blisco, Crinkle Crags, Bowfell, Esk Pike, Scafell Pike, Hard Knott, Harter Fell,
Green Crag (Ulpha Fell), Dow Crag, Coniston-O-M, Brim Fell, Swirl How, Grey Friar, Lingmoor Fell.
This route measures out at 16000ft ascent, 45 miles. I chose the bivvy site on Harter Fell and had a good 8 hours there.
I set off from Grasmere at 3pm and returned at 2pm the next day. The round
proved quite interesting with varied terrain and a chance to visit some unfrequented parts of the Lake District.
Generally good weather throughout.
In terms of route overview, I headed out of Grasmere and up onto the ridge that visits Raw Pike and Blea Rigg: this is possibly one
of my favourite sections on the Lakes as the pass weaves in and out of outcrops and little tarns.
Then headed towards Stickle Tarn and followed this by a scramble up the east ridge of Harrison Stickle (possibly Grade 1).
It was a warm day and the day hordes were finishing their day as I made a descent by Dungeon Ghyll into Langdale.
The pubs looked enticing but my day was just beggining as I then
went up to Pike of Blisco and then up onto Crinkle Crags via the "Good Step." It was a good ridge walk over Bowfell,
Esk Pike and
then up and onto Scafell Pike arriving circa 8pm. There were many people on and approaching its summit, especially on the
Wasdale flanks.
In a surreal manner, once I left the summit in a south-east direction (towards Rough Crag) everything went quiet very quickly: it felt
as though I'd been transported to another dimension. The descent was rough and remote as I headed down to the River Esk, but I have been
that route a few times before (on previous Old County Tops Fell races). I took a scenic tour of the upper Eskdale valley and
then onto the peaks of Hard Knott and Harter Fell where darkness finally fell. These latter peaks I'd never been to before and certainly
Harter Fell has an interesting rocky summit. I bivvied just of this summit around 11pm after a good 8 hours of running - with clear
views over the to the western fells and also towards the remote parts of the Scafells. However the remoteness at my bivy site
was questionable as I could hear music being played form somewhere down in the Duddon Valley.
I finally coaxed myself out the bivvy bag at 7am and headed over to Ulpha Fell which again was somewhere I'd never been to. It was rough
boggy ground en route to Crook Crag, and then a scramble up onto Green Crag (the main summit). A good running decent was made into
the Duddon Valley. This was then followed by a long pull up the Walna Scar Road to the Coniston group. I was flaking a bit on this ascent, but
after getting down various shortbreads and jelly babies I soon pciked up speed again once on the ridge to Dow Crag. The weather was showing
signs of change and a low mist was taking formation in the valleys (but below the main ridges). Good progress was made to Coniston, Brim
Fell, Swirl How and then finally Grey Friar (more or less the last main summit). I then headed in the direction to Blea Tarn, coming close
to where I was the previous day. The running descent to Three Shires Stone is a spectacular one but it is then a knee trembler down
the Wrynose Pass. Got to Blea Tarn in the late morning and decided to climb another unscaled peak of Lingmoor Fell. The direct ascent looked
daunting from the tarn but progress was again good as I made the summit (Brown How) in about 20 minutes. Another good running descent
to Elterwater, and then a jog over the pass to Grasmere Lake and finally to Grasmere Village at 2pm. I more or less timed
the arrival perfectly, as the clouds then suddenly became thick grey: a heavy downpour ensued.
Another extended Welsh 3000s (traverse). June 19, 2010
The weekend closest to midsummer is usually reserved for the most ambitious of long distance mountain adventures, although
I thought I'd reserve those plans to later in the year. Instead I opted for a "shortish" but fast day trip over the Welsh 3000s,
taking in some extra peaks on route to Snowdon (Foel Goch, Mynydd Perfydd) and then a "warm down" by taking in the peaks
along the ridge to Moel Eilio. Ascent/Distance: (Llanfairfechan to Llanberis) 16000ft, 35 miles. Travel time: 11h25,
with Foel Fras-Snowdon taking 7h55 (along standard route). Keeping to the traditions of climbing peaks in the dark
(around midummer) I also had an unplanned visit to the peak of Lliwedd Bach around 12 midnight (see below).
As usual I did this route solo/unsupported but I did not need to carry very much as I was planning to stay at the Rucksack Club
hut in Nant Peris with a friend (who was also out that day climbing with a large group of Imperial Students). My friend dropped
me at Llanfairfechan shore and off I went up to Foel Fras. I set a schedule of 12 hours to Llanberis, and a schedule of 8 hours
for the standard 3000s. Everything was clear, with blue skies and it was going to be a warm day. Good progress over the Carneddau was made and
I passed various groups en route - some moving at pace. I was wondering who else that day would be out doing the Welsh 3000s.
As I diverted to Yr Elen I found myself overtaking the same group of people again: they probably though I got lost.
Ogwen valley was made in good time, and then a steep pull onto Tryfan. The Tryfan-Glyder section was very busy with the hordes
but less so over the Y Garn-Elidir Fawr sections.
I was on schedule into Nant Pertis but I went up the road towards Ynys Ettws before taking
a short rest. I felt good most of the way around, but I flaked out on the final screes towards Bwlch Coch - I thought this was due
to the hot weather, but overall it was probably due to the direct 3000ft of steep climbing.
I quickly recovered once I reduced the pace at
the Crib Goch pinnacles. At the same time I was asked to guide people along the optimal route (again being asked if I was "local").
After reaching Crib Goch's summit I turned around to return to the pass, which lead to those people asking me if it was safe to carry on.
I replied all was fine and then headed up the scrambly ridge to Carnedd Ugain. I had 15 minutes left to reach Snowdon's summit and as usual
the summit cairn of Carnedd Ugain was blocked by people taking pictures of themselves in various combinations. I knew what was coming next:
I was asked to take their photo. I guess it would have been cheeky not to, and I didn't try to explain what I was up to. After taking
their photo I then ran off down to the pass (but not with their camera). Snowdon summit was quickly gained 7h55 after Foel Fras
with the inclusion of two extra peaks en route: Foel Goch, Mynydd Perfydd. After a brief rest at the summit I suprisingly made
good progress over the remaining peaks to Moel Eilio. Then followed a fast grassy descent towards Llanberis Village
although I had to apply the brakes to avoid a herd of cows. I arrived in the village 11 hours 25 min later
(from Llanfairfechan shore).
I walked back to Nant Peris along the road and passed another walker who coincidently recognised me from earlier on in the day. It turned
out he was part of the group that I overtook (twice) on the Carneddau. They where in fact doing the Welsh 1000m route, and indeed
part of their group thought I had gone astray when I diverted to Yr Elen! Back at the Rucksack Club hut at 9pm, I was first
to arrive. Thinking of beer and food down the pub, my friend appeared half an hour later with the news that we have to go
out again and search for some late/lost climbers! We drove around
to another hut (owned by Imperial College) and it was confirmed that the two student climbers had not appeared (now 11pm). So three of us
went off to look for them up the north face of Lliwedd. Well, we basically went to Pen-y-pass to look out for head-torches
on the cliff face. Indeed, we saw such torches high on the cliff, and fortunately they were moving upwards (but slowly),
so we headed off towards the summit of Lliwedd to lower a rope or to possibly offer some philosophical advice.
Fortunately they topped out safely at 1am (as we got to Lliwedd Bach). They had started
climbing around 2pm the previous day on a route that was meant to take only 3-5 hours. To my own testiment I've been off route
on the same cliff face while attempting a 3S scramble and quickly finding myself going onto something a few grades harder. We finally
stayed at the Imperial College hut - and had a very leisurely Sunday (most of it in Pete's Eat in Llanberis).
North and South Torridon. July 2009/2010
In July 2010 I spent a week in the western part of Torridon doing a mixture of walking, scrambling and running.
On a particularly adventurous day I opted for the following peaks starting from Beinn Eighe car park and
finishing in Torridon village:
Sgorr nan Lochan Uaine, Sgurr Dubh, Beinn Liath Mhor, Sgorr Ruadh, Fuar Tholl, An Ruadh-stac, Maol Chean-dearg.
The route goes over 4 Corbetts and 3 Munros with ascent/travel circa 10000ft, 20 miles. Time taken:
9 hours 25 minutes. Overall the route is pathless, remote and very rough. However it goes
over some impressive terrain and passes scenic Lochs. In particular the quarzite peak of An Ruadh-stac made for
an entertaining ascent. Due to the nature of the terrain this route involved more walking rather than running.
I was not pushing too hard on doing this route and had the pleasure to seek out some scrambles and take sufficient
rests to look at the views over to Skye.
In many places, such as coming off Maol Chean-dearg it was easy to become "Rhinogged." This word I used to describe
the situation where you try to climb over an innocent looking rock knoll only to find a 50ft drop the other side (as
typically occurring in the Welsh Rhinoggau).
For reference, in July 2009 I did a similar venture in northern Torridon and chose a good day to visit
the following (Munro) peaks:
Ruadh-stac Mor, Spidean Coire nan Clach (Beinn Eighe), Mullach an Rathain, Spidean a Choire Leith (Liathach)
and Sgurr Mhor, Tom na Gruagaich (Beinn Alligin)
Again the ascent/travel is similar: 10000ft, 20 miles (Beinn Eighe car park
to Beinn Alligin car park). Some would say that this is a serious outing, especially the ridge traverse of Liathach.
However on a day of good weather this makes a fine adventure, and it is certainly recommended to do the whole
Liathach ridge. The time taken for this latter trip was circa 10 hours.
I have a vague plan to return to Torridon in July 2011 and hopefully initiate some kind of "Torridon Round."
This is likely to start/end Bein Eighe car park and cover all the above peaks with addition of the two more
Corbetts Beinn Damh and Beinn Dearg. A rough estimate puts the total ascent/travel at 24000ft, 50 miles
with a guide time of 24 hours. I think it will be cracker...
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